How do you remove rust (iron) from your water?
A WATER SOFTENER CAN REDUCE IRON TO BELOW THE THRESHOLD OF STAINING, BUT IT CAN NOT TOTALLY REMOVE IT!
Under some circumstances, a water softener will work for a while, but the resin bed will gradually become fouled with iron over months or years, decreasing its efficiency at removing the iron.
To totally remove iron, one must utilize the following: (1) Oxidation and filtration; or (2) Sequestration using polyphosphates.
POLYPHOSPHATES - We will discuss sequestration of iron with polyphosphates first. Sequestration of iron with polyphosphates does not remove it from the water supply, but keeps the iron in solution, so that it does not produce stains. This is often used when individuals or businesses want to keep the iron from staining in irrigation systems. It is accomplished by injecting a small amount of polyphosphate into the water, typically with a chemical injection pump and a solution tank containing a supply of polyphosphate.
However, it is not perfect in removing iron, as evaporation of the water can still leave an iron residue and the iron often precipitates when the water is heated. Results may very dramatically with sequestration, depending upon a variety of factors, not the least of which is water chemistry.
OXIDATION - Almost any concentration of iron can be oxidized by feeding an oxidizer such as chlorine, ozone, pottasium permanganate, hydrogen peroxide or even oxygen into the water supply. The oxidizer reduces the iron to a small particle (precipitate), which is then mechanically filtered from the water, typically by a backwashing filter with a dense media containing carbon or materials.
In my thirty-plus years of experience, I have personally tried every method known to man to remove iron. Today, I primarily use hydrogen peroxide, as it is a much better oxidizer of iron than either chlorine or potassium permanganate and does not leave excess air in the water like oxygen systems. Unlike chlorine, hydrogen peroxide is simply hydrogen and oxygen and produces no harmful chlorination byproducts.
A hydrogen peroxide system consists of a chemical injection pump, solution tank, in-line static mixer, and a backwashing filter to remove the oxidized iron. I prefer the hydrogen peroxide system because it completely removes iron and sulfur with totally predictable results. It is my opinion that other methods are not as predictable or reliable in function. A hydrogen peroxide system will remove 100% of the iron. PERIOD!
For homebuilders that build large custom homes with irrigation systems on iron-bearing waters, the hydrogen peroxide system will totally eliminate any staining in irrigation systems, and throughout the home, for that matter. Additionally, a water softener will not have to work nearly as hard once the iron is completely removed. This is not to say that other methods can't work. I am just stating my opinion based upon my extensive experience in treating problem water.
99 Comments
Jeff, Yes, it is. We made a big decision to totally re-do our website and that is top priority right now, but if you want to call me later this week, I can talk to you about the new SanisAire syetm.
Dear Mark! We have a colligen water softener, we use bleach once a month,and the brime tank is also always full of salt but still we have huge rust stains on all our laundary, washbasin, bath tub, dishes anything that is exposed to water. We did call a colligen expert for tuning but of no use. I am quite frustrated with all this Can you kindly suggest any way how to eliminate rust stains as well as hard water stains from the water. Many thanks in advance Sobia
Sobia, You will need a complete water analysis before I can recommend anything. Here’s the link: https://www.uswatersystems.com/catalog/ntl-watercheck-test-kit.htm
I read a prev post about a salesman for a water purification sysytem and offering the 5 yrs of free cleaning, and bath products. I just had the same company “Rain Soft” out at my home. He totally has me sold, but the system is $3800.00 without the RO at the kitchen sink. I am wondering if I should spend the money or just get a regular softener? This does come with a lifetime warranty also, even on electronics. Is this to good to be true? I really would like the softer skin, and hair, white clothes and no staining in my brand new house! I am so afraid of my new appliances getting trashed. Please help me make my decision.
The Fusion water softener sold on US Water Systems website is as good, probably better, than the unit in question and will save you about $3,000.00. The soap packages they give away cost about $150.00 and most people never re-order once they run out. Why? I think you know why. Rainsoft is a good product, and it is a REGULAR SOFTENER (nothing more or less), but a LIFETIME WARRANTY on electronics? Please! Water conditioners like this are sold by commissioned salespeople who routinely make 30% or more commission. If you have money to burn, buy the Rainsoft, but you won’t get any better quality water.
Mark, I have been reading your site for two days and I have loved to learn so much about water filtration solutions. Unfortunately, I am not sure how to solve my problem. I am hoping you can help! My husband and I are building a new house. We tore down his old house (1800 sq. ft.)that had 1 1/2 bath to build a new house (4000 sq. ft) that will have 4 baths. While in his old house, he had a water filtration system (CFS-220-stem and CF-1500-J)by Dupage Water Conditioning Company. The system consisted of a chlorine tank, filter tank and water softener. The house plumbing has red stains. When my husband added chlorine a slug would go through the system and we would end up feeling like we were taking a chlorine shower. Otherwise, we would smell sulfur often when we turned on the bathroom faucet. The readings Dupage took for the water test are as follows: I=2.5, H=30, SO4=300 and TDS-800. In our new house we are thinking of having the water main brought in and splitting it into three branches. One branch would go directly to spickets and sprinkler system. The second branch would go to a sediment and carbon filter and then to the kitchen faucet and ice maker. The last branch would have some other type of “whole house” system for all other uses. Here are my questions: 1. If this was your house, would you break the lines into three branches and treat each line separately? If no, what do you suggest? 2. For the kitchen faucet and ice maker, can you suggest a filtration system? 3. For the “whole house” system, can you suggest a system? I would prefer to not smell chlorine or rotten eggs in the morning!!!! Your help is GREATLY appreciated. A system that works would be a wonderful thing!
Sandy, I like how you are thinking, and we can make sure you never smell chlorine or rotten-eggs or have any rust stains, but I need to know a little more about your water. I agree with what you say about splitting your water into 3 branches and treating them differently. 1. Utility Water - used for watering and outside chores (it doesn’t need to be treated as much, but you may want to have the iron and/or odor removed for outside watering and to prevent stains on the house, shrubbery and sidewalks); 2. Working Water - used for bathing, cleaning, dishwashing, laundry (this needs to be of a higher quality); and 3. Life Support Water - used for internal comsumption (should be of the highest quality). However, I can only make a recommendation IF I know what your particular water chemistry is. Here’s how I can find out: https://www.uswatersystems.com/catalog/ntl-watercheck-test-kit.htm If you have your water tested like this, I can confidently make a recommendation how to properly treat it. My guess is that you spent some time and money Planning your home. You should spend some time and money to find out EXACTLY what is in your water. That way you can treat it properly. When you get that information, get back with me. Regards, Mark
Mark, Since our house is currently under construction we do not have any way to get a water sample. Should I take a sample for my neighbors spiket? Also, unfortunately I am getting to you late in the game. We need to figure this issue out quickly. We are going to be reviewing plumbing quotes this week. Is there any way I can expedite the testing by a local person? Where would I look? Again, your help is greatly appreciated!
Sandy, If you get a sample from your neighbor’s well, you will know what your neighbor’s water is. However, unless you get your water from the same well, it can be dramatically different. I have seen wells 10 feet apart at the same depth and the water is as different as night and day! Some local labs do testing – you can look under Laboratories or Water Analysis and Testing. Avoid using anyone who has an interst in the outcome (such as someone who sells equipment). At minimum, you will need the following: Hardness pH Iron Sulfur Manganese Tannin TDS E-coli More would be better, but I can make a determination after that. I strongly urge you to get your water tested for at least the above contaminants. Then I can make a recommendation. If you find someone who will make a recommendation WITHOUT testing…. RUN!
Sandy, I could believe everything about you water analysis except the 300 ppm of sulfur. No way that’s right! I could believe 3 ppm, maybe even 30 ppm, but not 300 ppm! The plunbing should be simple: Just tell the plumber where you want the three different types of water to go, and have them each plumbed to your mechanical room. No reason to install the water treatment equipment during the “rough-in” phase. That’s the simple part. You don’t want to dip the water out of the well. It really needs to run for a while in order to obtain an accurate analysis.
Mark, I have a chicken and egg dilemma. The water piping has not been installed. The house is still being framed. Once the main is brought into the house, the plumber will want to plumb the house. How do I by pass the filtration of the three systems and still plumb the rest of the house? Better yet, how do I get the water tested without having a water line? Do water testing companies have a way of testing a well by going down into the well with a sample cup without contaminating the sample when they bring it back up? I know these may sound like silly questions. I just want to make sure I am doing the right thing.
Mark, I have some information on your system from the last test that was taken… Iron 2.5 ppm Hardness 30 grains Sulfur 300 ppm Tannins .5 ppm TDS 800 ppm Is this enough information to recommend a system(s)?
Sorry…my first sentence should have read.. I have some information on our system from the last time it was tested.
Mark, I would like your opinion on treating small amounts of sulfur (less than 1ppm)in my well.We do not have any iron problems. currently we have a 100000 grain mclean softner for hardness (80 grains), with a rented culligan system they call the “super s” to treat sulfur at .7 to 1 ppm. The above system works great how ever I would like to purchase my own sulfur system, since renting the “super s” is cost prohibitive. I’ve been looking at systems that use pyrolox they claim they can treat up to 4ppm sulfur. what do you think about these pyrolox systems or do you have any other reccomendations? your peroxide system seems like over kill for my purposes beside $350 a year on peroxide is close to what it cost to rent culligan “super s”.
Mark, Somehow my last post seems to have been deleted.There are three of us in our family. I’m looking for your opinion on the most cost effective way on treating 1ppm sulfur? I would like to purchase a system soon.I am looking for minimum upkeep and resonable price. Thanx Neil