Get clean, safe water at home without guesswork or stress. A DIY install is very doable if you plan the job, follow code, and keep up with simple maintenance. This guide shows you how to choose the right system, place it correctly, protect against backflow, and keep it running for years.

Why proper installation matters

A good install does more than improve taste. It protects your family. The biggest risks come from three places: dirty drain water siphoning back into drinking lines, bacteria growing in neglected filters or tanks, and equipment that’s the wrong fit for your water. Local plumbing codes also require specific protections most notably air gaps on indirect waste lines so a sloppy install can cause both safety issues and code problems. The CDC reminds homeowners that different treatment methods do different jobs and that performance depends on correct install and ongoing care. Pair that with UPC air-gap rules and you’ll avoid the most common hazards. CDC+1

Step 1: test your water before you buy

Treat water like a doctor treats a patient: diagnose first, then prescribe. If you’re on a private well, the CDC advises testing at least once a year for total coliform bacteria, nitrates, total dissolved solids (TDS), and pH, and asking your local health department about any regional concerns. City-water homes receive a yearly Consumer Confidence Report (CCR); read it and consider extra testing for things your home’s plumbing can add (for example, lead in older houses) or emerging concerns like PFAS. CDC+1

When it comes to treating your drinking water, there's no universal solution that addresses every contaminant or issue effectively. Water quality varies widely depending on location, source (e.g., municipal supply, well water), and specific issues such as minerals, chemicals, or particulates.

The key is to identify the primary concerns through water testing such as high total dissolved solids (TDS), heavy metals, chlorine taste, hardness, or emerging contaminants like per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFAS) and select technologies tailored to those. Over-relying on a single filter can lead to incomplete treatment, wasted money, or even filter failure.

• Reverse osmosis (RO) for broad reduction, including many metals, nitrate, TDS, and numerous PFAS.
• Granular activated carbon (GAC) for chlorine, taste/odor, and many organic chemicals (some PFAS too).
• Ion exchange softening for hardness and scale prevention.
• Sediment filtration to catch sand, silt, and rust and to protect downstream media.

EPA’s PFAS guidance confirms that GAC, ion exchange, and RO can significantly reduce PFAS when they’re properly selected and maintained. US EPA+1

Pick the scope that fits the problem. Point-of-use (POU) treats one faucet perfect for drinking and cooking with an under-sink RO. Point-of-entry (POE) treats all water entering the home and is the right choice for whole-house issues like hardness, chlorine, or sediment. Virginia Tech’s extension program offers clear guidance on how to choose between POU and POE and recommends testing before and after installation to confirm performance. Virginia Tech Publications

A popular choice is the All-American Reverse Osmosis from US Water Systems for crisp, great-tasting water at the kitchen sink.

Layout. Start by mapping where the module, storage tank, and faucet will sit. Leave room to reach the housings and change filters later. Run tubing paths in your head before you drill or cut.

Faucet. Use an existing hole or drill to the size in the manual. Seat the gasket, align the faucet, and snug it down so it doesn’t twist when you turn the handle.

Mount and connect. Position the RO module where tubing won’t kink. Tee into the cold supply for the feed and use thread sealant where the manual specifies. Follow the color-coded tubing so “in, out, and drain” are unmistakable.

The critical part: the drain and air gap. RO systems discharge to a drain, and that line must not be allowed to siphon dirty water back. Many jurisdictions require an air gap on this indirect waste. Use an air-gap RO faucet or a standpipe device that creates a physical break this is the most reliable backflow protection and is called out in the Uniform Plumbing Code. forms.iapmo.org

Start-up. Open the feed valve slowly, check every joint for leaks, then flush per the manual (new membranes need a long rinse). Test your water to confirm performance and set a reminder for future filter changes. The CDC stresses that picking the right device is step one; installing and maintaining it is step two. CDC

Helpful accessory: US Water Systems’ Dual Air Gap for RO/Softeners makes a clean, code-friendly standpipe connection if you aren’t using an air-gap faucet.

Many homeowners pair a Bodyguard Whole-House Carbon Filter (for chlorine/chloramine and organics) with a Matrixx Smart Metered Water Softener (for hardness and scale).

Placement and prep. Install after the main shut-off and before any branch lines so every fixture is protected. Add a full bypass loop. Choose a space with a floor drain or standpipe nearby and enough height to service tanks.

Dry-fit, then plumb. Lay everything out, mark cuts, and use unions at the inlet and outlet for easy service later. Support tanks and head valves so piping doesn’t carry weight.

Protect media with prefiltration. A simple sediment filter before carbon or softening media prevents clogging, preserves flow, and extends media life. NDSU Extension notes that activated-carbon filters don’t handle sediment well; prefiltration helps them do their real job. NDSU

Drain lines with air gaps. Backwashing filters and softeners discharge to a drain and must terminate through an air gap or air brake to meet code. UPC Section 801.2 requires an air gap for indirect wastes, and IAPMO guidance summarizes minimum gap sizing (often “twice the effective opening,” but never less than 1 inch for small openings). US Water’s Dual Air Gap simplifies this step. forms.iapmo.org+1

Air gaps are non-negotiable. They’re a simple, passive way to stop backflow. If you lose pressure or a drain backs up, an air gap is the barrier that keeps waste out of your drinking water lines. That’s why the Uniform Plumbing Code calls them out explicitly for indirect wastes. forms.iapmo.org

If you remove disinfectant, raise your hygiene. Whole-house carbon makes water feel and taste better by removing chlorine, but that same chlorine normally helps suppress microbial growth in pipes. Be diligent about filter changes and routine flushing and follow manufacturer instructions after long periods of low use. CDC

Mind hot-water settings. The CDC recommends storing hot water at about 140°F (60°C) and keeping circulating hot water above 120°F (49°C) to reduce Legionella risk while using mixing valves at taps to prevent scalds. Flush low-use lines and fixtures on a routine schedule. CDC+1

RO systems. Pre/post cartridges typically need regular replacement based on usage and water quality; university guides emphasize that intervals depend on flow and contaminants, with the RO membrane replaced less frequently. Plan to check cartridges on a 6-month cadence and follow the manual’s gallons-treated guidance. Nebraska Extension Publications

Carbon filters. Small cartridge units often have monthly to six-monthly service intervals, depending on the load; larger systems or whole-house systems typically last 3-5 years but still require routine media changes. Keep a simple log so you don’t guess. UMass Amherst+1

Water softeners. Keep salt in the brine tank, confirm regenerations are happening as scheduled, and remember that softeners restore resin with salt during regeneration check your salt level frequently. Penn State Extension

Quick takeaways

• Test first, buy second. Let lab results and your CCR guide your choice. CDC+1
• Use air gaps on drains. They’re simple, code-required backflow protection for RO and backwashing equipment. forms.iapmo.org
• Add sediment prefiltration. Protects carbon and softening media and preserves flow. NDSU
• Maintain on schedule. Performance drops—and risks rise—when filters are overdue. Nebraska Extension Publications

You don’t have to guess—or go it alone. US Water Systems will help you test, size, and install the right solution the right way.

• WaterLogix Basic (mail-in lab test)
• WaterLogix Premium (expanded well-water panel): After your results come back, our Master Water Specialists translate the report into a clear, system-by-system plan (and your test cost can be credited toward recommended equipment see product page for current details).

• All American Reverse Osmosis (under-sink RO): targets lead, PFAS, nitrates, and more; DIY-friendly with color-coded tubing and a clean faucet finish.

• Magna Compact Whole-House Filter (carbon): smoother water for showers, cooking, and laundry.
• Bodyguard Whole-House Filter (backwashing carbon): high-capacity chemical reduction for city water.
• Matrixx Smart Metered Water Softener: efficient, high flow softening with app monitoring.

• Dual Air Gap for RO/Softeners: simple, compliant backflow protection on equipment drains.
• WiFi Home Protection Valve & Flood Prevention: automatic leak shutoff with app alerts.

For drinking water: The All-American Reverse Osmosis delivers crisp water at the sink with a DIY-friendly kit and clear instructions. Add the Dual Air Gap if you prefer a standpipe connection instead of an air-gap faucet.

For whole-home comfort: Pair a Bodyguard Whole-House Carbon Filter to knock down chlorine/chloramine with a Matrixx Smart Metered Water Softener to stop scale. The combo treats every tap while keeping flow rates high.

• Do I really need an air gap on my RO drain line?

  In most places, yes. RO drains are indirect wastes and the Uniform Plumbing Code requires they discharge through an air gap or air break. That physical break keeps contaminated drain water from siphoning into your drinking water during pressure swings. forms.iapmo.org

• Where does a whole-house system go?

  Right after the main shut-off and before the plumbing branches. That way every tap is protected. Include a bypass and place a sediment prefilter ahead of carbon or softener media to extend service life and preserve flow. NDSU

• How can I reduce PFAS at the tap?

  EPA identifies GAC, ion exchange, and RO as effective technologies for many PFAS when chosen and maintained correctly. For kitchen use, a POU RO is a strong choice; for home-wide concerns, consider POE solutions sized to your water and flow. Test before and after to verify results. US EPA+1

• Final step: enjoy better water

  Follow this plan—test first, choose the right tech, install with air gaps, and keep up with simple maintenance—and you’ll have clean, safe water with a system that lasts. If you want help picking sizes or parts for your home, tell me your water test results and fixture count and I’ll spec a US Water Systems setup that fits.